Remember the
giant paint throwing festival from last year? Well… this Sinulog festival was
that on steroids… add thousands more people... and a loose tiger… we will get
to that later. We had heard it was the craziest festival in the Philippines, so
of course we had to check it out, and it definitely lived up to the hype! Jen,
Chris, and I took the overnight ferry, about 7 hours, to the island next door
named Cebu where this infamous festival takes place. Not the best idea, but we
survived. This ferry ride was what I imagined it to be like for immigrants
traveling to Ellis Island. No kidding. There had to be over 600 people on this
boat… bunk bed types with each person getting one little vinyl sticky mat to
sleep on. We were sardine smushed together, freezing winds when the tarp blew
off, loud excitement and crying babies throughout the night, thank goodness my
ticket was to sleep next to Jen, because we were almost on top of each other
since we also had to keep our backpacks on the beds for security (not like
there was any other open space for them to be stored anyways and they provided
adequate pillows), all part of the adventure right? Yes, what we thrive on, and
it was so worth it for the festival in store for us, an insane combination of
intensely religious folks and families mixed with young liberal Filipino
heathens… coming together in masses to celebrate, dance, parade, drink, and
attend actual church masses, haha.
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Makeshift Chinese New Year! Stolen Manila photo. |
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Night Ferry |
The festival’s purpose is to commemorate the pagan origin of the
Filipino people, and their acceptance of Roman Catholicism… what
other reason to drink and party? The word “sinulog” comes from the Visayan adverb “sulog” which roughly means “like water current movement,” it
describes the forward-backward movement of the Sinulog dance…which we observed
and participated in countless times. In the 1500’s the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan arrived
and planted the cross on the shores of Cebu, claiming land for Spain. He presented the
image of the child Jesis,
the Santo Ninyo,
as a baptismal gift to the rulers of the island, hundreds were then baptized to
the Roman Catholic Church. When Queen Juana received the image, she danced with
joy and was said to have brought it around to cure the sick and rid demons. This
is thought of as the first Sinulog. Hence… everyone of all ages now dancing constantly
holding up their baby Jesus idol statues every year all over the country! Sooo
funny looking and wonderfully adorable.
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Santo Ninyos! |
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So funny. Stolen photo. |
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Awesome depiction of Sinulog. Stolen photo also. |
We watched the
religious processions with thousands walking down the extremely crowded street
holding their dressed up baby Jesus dolls above their head, I still can’t
believe how many different statues exist and how proud people are of their own
little guy. To get the full cultural experience, of course we had to check out
the heathen town as well. It took us forever to get there walking through the
crowds, but again, that is all part of the experience, and it was just as we
had imagined once we arrived… countless loony dancing people all drenched with
colored paint, charcoal, and rum. A young man welcomed me to the festivities by
a pleasant “pit senyor” greeting, then poured an entire beer over my head. This
did not feel at all like the Philippines than I knew. This was a show of wealth
and privilege… being able to throw away alcohol!?! My town would be so
disappointed. “Pit Senyor” is addressing the baby jesus (Santo Ninyo), and patron saint of the festival. Throughout
the weekend “pit senyor” was a greeting exchanged between everyone and the
basic lyrics to the song that played not-stop for over 72 hours… It literally
is used when requesting good fortune for someone in a prayer. So back the
tiger… and giant python. On the busiest street of insanity, where people were
zip-lining off a giant building, and where parades were held, which we did not
even get to see because of way too many people and zero space to move, there
was a drugged up tiger just hangin out on a table to pose with for photos. Ugh…
so sad and sick… and people were draping themselves in pythons for photos. I
was not a happy camper seeing these poor animals, but someone fed me a beer and
I got over it…
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Moment of Impact |
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Revelers |
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Jen, Sam, Me, Hil, Chris - Super Sinulog Crew |
Alcohol is
actually how most Peace Corps volunteers deal with depressing issues in their
countries that have no chance of changing, but that is a whole nother blog! Calm
down now, it is more of a joke than serious… for most of us.
I fell in love with
the big mall in Cebu, Ayala, it is brand new and has such beautiful
architecture and felt just like America! They had a café where every dish had
some sort of chocolate in it, Hillary and I drank spicy dark chocolate
goldschlager and white chocolate raspberry martinis!?! Yes please! Greek, Thai,
and indian food? My goodness yes! It also had my favorite Filipino store, which
I thought was only in Manila, Artwork! They turn local art pieces into clothing!
I really dig Cebu. Our hotel room was splendid too. Of course, we had to party
bed it up again. The 5 of us (me, Hillary, Jen, Chris, and Sam, who lives in
Cebu) fit perfectly in the 3 twin beds that we manually pushed together. I love
these people so much. They are all so weird, funny, witty, brilliant, adventurous,
and awesome. We had soooo much fun together just playing around, talking, doing
some acrobatics/karate/wrestling/flying in our room, and constantly amusing
ourselves.
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We are cool. |
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You're doing it Peter! |
I just had to spend an
extra day with my best buddy, Hillary, by ourselves before heading back to the
busy miserable school haze, and to avoid the bus terminal insanity the day
before. We chika chikaed like usual, and went to a lovely little butterfly sanctuary
owned by the cutest lovely little butterfly obsessed man. Good times. The next
day, it took me 2 buses and a short ferry to get back. Our bus actually got on
the ferry… more like a barge. They instructed us all to get off the bus so we
wouldn’t drown if we went down. The barge was really swaying while we were
walking up, and I felt like I would be smushed any second by the massive 4-wheelers
I was sliding in between to get to the top of the boat. Aye yai yai… all part
of the adventure. That was the end of the weekend Sinulog spectacle.
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My one and only. |
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Lapu Lapu, who killed Magellan, made completely out of dead butterfly wings. |
Upon returning to
school, I smelled a foul smell while sitting at my desk. This is a usual
occurrence living in the interesting smell filled Phillys, but this smell would
not go away. When I eventually opened a lower drawer of my desk… there he laid,
a belly up stanky lizard. Ew. One of my students noticed my disgusted face and
came over to take care of it. I also had fun grading my students’ future
perfect tense “dream scrapbooks.” See the picture below for one of my favorite
pages. There was some crazy nostalgia as I smelled a certain glitter glue on
some and saw burnt paper used for aesthetics for others. Remember when we did
that for my project, Dad? Oh, to be a kid, all so simple then. Memories… misty
water colored memoriesssss…
It still seems to be
hellish days next to spectacular days. I had a bad cough for about a week, probably
induced by the party bed and beer sharing, and was about to punch the next
person who told me I was sick because I go to sleep with my hair wet. So many
Filipino superstitions…but first of all that is ridiculous, second of all, stop
knowing that I go to sleep with my hair wet stranger! I had to buy some toilet
paper and snacks from the mall in Dumaguete one night, pretty standard, but I had a pleasant
encounter when a nice boy held my bags for the entire bus ride. I was last to
get on the bus, literally jumped on in motion and sunk into other peoples’
skins. For some reason, that one time, people were very helpful!
I love my sisters, I do.
I complain about them all the time because they are annoying spoiled brats
sometimes, but they do some pretty cute things every so often. The other day
they took turns brushing my hair, and Nicole in perfect English says “when the
light strikes it, your hair looks golden.” Adorable. She also gave me a surprise
artwork drawn with cockroach repellant chalk on my door…. Mariz thinking it was
normal chalk drew on my face with it… burned a little, but I survived. She then
proceeded to tell me if we were ever fighting, she would draw a crack in the
heart to make it broken… Another weekend, I took them swimming with floaties…
also speechless and priceless, and we swung on a swing, they had never played
on swings before and were afraid! Blew my mind.
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Roll Out |
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TEXAS Representin! |
So with all this talk
of festivals and shenanigans, I want to walk you through my average day… which
is actually about 80% of my Peace Corps experience, but not what I usually
write most about. I wake up at 6 AM (I wake up at 4 AM and 5 AM from the
roosters cockadoolding/dogs freaking out/and pigs being slaughtered/ every day,
but I manage to fall back asleep until I have to get up at 6. I eat my
breakfast of rice and corned tuna, morningdaydream about delicious unattainable
brewed coffee, and head out for the 5-minute walk to my school that has our
flag ceremony at 7:15AM. (if I am super grumpy, I will skip this and show up
after just before my class) The kids stand in line, sing the national anthem
and school song, and do some morning exercising to whatever poppy song is
popular.
My first class and highest performing is at 8:30, so I have a bit of
time to get ready for it. They made me giggle most days, they are so smart and
hard-working. My desk sits in the library that Cathy and I created, and we both
hold our classes there. Since another teacher left the school, I have classes
non-stop until lunch, including 7th grade now, so I have to create a
totally separate lesson plan. I eat lunch from the school canteen because
someone decided I had to (most all other PCVs go home for lunch! I only live 5
minutes away! I am not bitter…) on good days I have fish soup and kalabasa
veggie with rice, on bad days “meatballs,”(which are actually pork fat balls)
with rice. I eat in the library so students have a place to come hang out and
read or chat, if I did go home, it would stay locked and unused, so that is a
benefit. Next, I have classes straight after the other until 4, quite stressful
when students are also coming wanting to check out books, but, there is no
where else for our classes to be held. New classroom construction is happening
now. My last class is the lowest level, loudest, and most troublesome. They
suck out every smidgen of my energy, but they are also probably my favorites. I
give them some credit too because they have also already had 7 different
classes that day and are super sweaty and tired themselves, and I am yelling
some foreign language at them. School lets on around 4:30-5, whenever the
principal pleases. How my students respond to the lesson affects my mood
drastically, along with if I can avoid seeing other teachers who will always
make-fun of my appearance or force feed me something unpleasant tasting. Some
days I work really hard on a lesson that completely looses the class attention
and fails miserably, and other days I work really hard to think of a creative
interactive lesson, and they love it. Depends on the day…my mood…and their
mood. I really have tried to detect what makes the difference, but it still
feels like just luck.
If it is Wednesday, I look forward to my weekly skype date
with my parents (Pretty sure I would go insane without it.) Thursday, I have
Glee Club, which is a bit of work but always fun, and the students adore it. If
it is Friday, I have yoga for the teachers. Then sweaty, exhausted, and tainted
with my own mixture of student and stale Allie stench, and if there is no
special dance that must be learnt for any upcoming event, I head home, either
feeling useless or successful. Mariz, Nicole, and dogs Pepper, Bobby, and Budoy
greet me daily, along with the 5 stray cats that try to claim our yard. Some
days I allow the girls to come into my hut, every day they anxiously wait for
the verdict of open or closed door, but about every other day I lock the door
and drown in my own sweaty sorrows to work on the lesson for the following day until
family dinner which is always a surprise… could be my favorite chicken curry or
my not-so-favorite, native chicken bones or “bulad” very fragrant dried fish. Who
shows up is also always a surprise, could be just us 5, or any of the 20 other neighbor
relatives. After dinner, I either chat with my host mom Joy, she loves to chat,
or retreat to the safety of illegally downloaded reality TV or hardrive movie, while
on special occasions, drinking wine out of the bottle in my hut. Then I wash
myself with a tabo out of cold water in a bucket…still goosebumps every time…
and maneuver into my surprisingly cozy, but far too small, mosquito netted bed.
Such is my life, the life that I chose. Tomorrow is another day.
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Too cute for words... kids up for adoption at Casa Miani in Dgte... anyone interested? |
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Reading Day |
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That is my butt. I think those are mosquito bites. |
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Catouflage... hehe. |
One final plug for money! Help support gender development in the
Philippines by donating to my GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) Camp this April!
Most of our school funds are going towards construction projects and new
chairs/tables since so many are falling apart, so we are needing a lot of help
in funding GLOW this year. Any amount helps, and the more money raised, the
more girls get to attend the camp! Look back at my last GLOW blog to get a
refresher of everything we covered and all of the fun! Also, be watching for
the next blog covering our One Billion Rising event to end violence against
women and children, and Glee Valentine’s Day Song Dedications, where proceeds
will go towards a much needed feeding program for my high school!
Click HERE to DONATE to my GLOW Camp 2014!
Dear Allie,
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for sending me a letter from Philippines, which I have received today. If you wish, you can see their picture at my blog: www.cartasenmibuzon.blogspot.com
Thank you again for helping me in order to increase my collection of letters. I send you again my sincere wishes of health, peace and happiness to you, your family and friends, and of course I hope you can make your work in Philippines in a pleasant way.
A hug from Spain
Emilio Fernandez